Hello world, first of all huge apologies for the delay, me and Gareth have been very busy both working and I had a trip to Hong Kong which was incredible but that’s another story for another day! Not much intro needed for this one, just a shout out to John who was a great lad as you will discover…
A Policeman A Pimp and a Weirdo Called Jeff, Part 7
We’d spent several days and nights in the USA now, some of them good, some of them not so good. The previous night wasn’t a great one, given that we didn’t meet many people despite the initial promise of a bar full of young people, and also the fact that we hadn’t made it the whole way to Chicago was a bit of a dampener. That was the plan for today though, visiting some Amish people en route of course. We’d noticed, while looking at our map of Michigan with Savanna in Roast & Toast, that Centreville (where James told us the Amish lived when we rang him from Dublin airport) was between Kalamazoo and the Indiana Toll Road which would take us to Chicago. Savanna didn’t believe that we intended to go there to meet Amish people, but I guess at that point she didn’t really know us that well. The truth was that we fully intended to go and visit them.
Our reason for wanting to visit the Amish was simple. We’d seen them on TV, in a documentary series called Living with the Amish and admired their way of life. Jono had become frankly obsessed by this series and everything about them, from their core values and friendliness to their buggies and hats.
Jono had grand plans of knocking on their doors and explaining that we’d come to visit them, and assumed that they’d be friendly and hospitable and invite us in for dinner. I wasn’t so sure, but was happy to drive to Centreville to see what would happen anyway. It was pretty conveniently placed along our route after all!
Before we left our hotel in Kalamazoo we asked the receptionist if there were any Wal-Marts nearby. We needed a few things, like phone chargers and in Jono’s case some clothes, and we’d heard that Wal-Mart sells literally everything. He showed us where to go, so we jumped in our truck and headed off.
I still wasn’t quite used to driving in the USA (or anywhere for that matter) and on the way to Wal-Mart I found myself driving in the overtaking lane of the dual carriageway for no good reason. As I realised my mistake and looked in the mirror before moving into the correct lane, I saw a worrying sight. Jono had noticed it too at the exact same time.
“There’s a cop car behind us by the way, just so you know.” He said.
It was too late though, he was sure to pull us over for the erratic driving if not for the lack of license plates, and sure enough the red and blue lights came on and the cop signalled for us to pull over.
“Here we go again,” I thought.
The conversation with this cop was virtually the same as with the previous ones outside Brutus. First of all he asked us why we had no license plates, and we responded that we had 15 days to get them and that we only got the truck a few days ago. He asked where we were going, where we’d come from, who owned the truck and how long we were staying for. So we told him – Wal-Mart, Ireland, it’s our truck, we’re here for 10 days. His attitude at this point seemed to be a mixture of anger and skepticism. He also asked to see my “international” driver’s license, so I handed him my UK one with a feigned air of confidence, along with all the documents relating to the purchase of the car. He told us to wait there while he went back to his car to look everything over. When he came back to us, just like the previous cops, his attitude had completely changed and he was happy and laughing. He gladly helped us with directions to Wal-Mart and wished us a pleasant onward journey. Of course the story would have been much better if the cop hadn’t ended up being so friendly, and we’d been arrested and had our truck impounded, but fortunately for us things worked out just perfectly again!
We soon found Wal-Mart, parked up and went inside. The place was absolutely massive. Groceries, Electronics, Books, Furniture, Gym Equipment, Restaurants, a Pharmacy… It had everything! We went to the electronics section to find an in-car phone charger then to the clothes section to get the things Jono needed, and I bought a hat to keep the low Winter sun out of my eyes while driving. We also went to the CD section to buy some music for the journey, since the truck radio didn’t work. After browsing for a few minutes we selected albums by Adele, Mumford & Sons and Eminem. In hindsight we should have bought more.
While queuing to pay for our items we started discussing the scale of this place, and of America in general, and the differences between here and home. There was so much we didn’t understand. Jono mentioned that he hadn’t seen any postboxes the whole time we’d been here, and I realised that I hadn’t either. Where were they?? The young girl in the queue in front us had clearly overheard us and was struggling to contain her laughter. Her mother was blushing, embarrassed at her daughter’s apparent rudeness towards our ignorance, but she maintained a straight face and tried not to make eye contact with us. Spurred on by their awkwardness we just continued our conversation. The mother clearly disapproved but the daughter was practically crying with laughter by the time they’d paid and left.
After a quick lunch in Wal-Mart’s Subway (where we struggled to order – everything was different to back home including several different meats and seemingly hundreds of cheeses), we went back to the the truck and got on our way. As we walked back through the car park we couldn’t help but notice the sheer number of pickup trucks parked there! At least two-thirds of the vehicles in that car park! We rarely see them at all in Ireland or the rest of Europe so it was very noticeable. Seems like when it comes to cars and houses and other such possessions, Americans always want to have the biggest one they can get!
On the road to Centreville Jono put the Eminem CD on and we started to listen to the first track. A lot of the song seemed to be censored, so we tried the next one. That was censored too. It turned out the whole CD was censored and every mention of drugs, weapons or swear words had been removed. As you can imagine, that made listening to Mr. Mathers’ raps a little difficult. Now we were just left with Adele and Mumford & Sons, who have about six good songs between them, so things soon got repetitive. Oh well, better than nothing. (And certainly better than listening to Jono singing songs with the wrong lyrics, which is all I had before we bought any CDs.)
We found Centreville relatively easily and took some photos by the sign on our way in. The town centre was small but busy with lots of traffic about and some shops and businesses. This clearly wasn’t where we were going to find the Amish though, so we continued to drive on through Centreville, through the residential suburban areas and into the countryside. At this point we had no clue where to go, so we just drove around the grid of roads and dirt tracks haphazardly, hoping to see a house that didn’t have any lights on or any cars outside, or maybe a typical Amish barn. We drove around for several miles and found nothing. James had told us that Centreville had the largest Amish community in Michigan with around 1500 living here, but we couldn’t find a single one, so when we came across a house with a sign saying “B&B” outside we decided to go in and ask for some help.
The couple who owned the B&B were working outside at the time and they watched intently as we drove up the long driveway to the house. This place was in the middle of nowhere so I’m not surprised they were a little shocked to see visitors. We got out and asked them if they could help us as we were a little lost. They smiled and introduced themselves as the Higgins family, saying they had a map they could show us and asking if we’d like to go inside for a drink. We followed them inside, and Jono looked at me, as if to say, “I told you American people would be like this…”
Mrs. Higgins put the kettle on while her husband made smalltalk with us and showed us the county map they had. Apparently he occasionally worked for some Amish families as a driver, bringing them long distances in his truck when it was impracticle for them to travel in their horse-drawn buggies. He therefore knew very well where they lived and he was able to show us on the map, but he said since it was a Sunday we were unlikely to see them. The Amish, being deeply religious people, would either be in church or having quiet time at home, rather than out and about running their businesses or working on the land. Apparently we’d picked a pretty poor day to come to Centreville, but we remained optimistic.
We finished our tea and thanked the lovely couple for their help and hospitality, having concluded that our best bet was to drive around the area Mr. Higgins had shown us to possibly see a buggy going to or from a church.
We drove towards Nottawa, via a famous wooden covered bridge, to the area we’d been shown on the map, and it wasn’t long before we spotted an Amish buggy on the road up ahead. With its distinctive black exterior and red reflective triangle on the back, we were sure this was what we’d been looking for!
We overtook them at a low speed so as not to scare the horse. “Pull over!” Jono shouted excitedly as soon as we’d gone by them. He wanted to take a photograph, so I pulled to the side of the road while he tried to find a disposable camera. We got a few photos, none of them very good. Those buggies are faster than they look.
Satisfied that that was probably the closest encounter we’d get with any Amish people, we started to make our way towards the Indiana Toll Road and Chicago. On the way, however, we spotted a large house that had a few buggies outside and a sign saying that it was an Amish furniture factory, so we stopped to take a few photos of that too. It would have been nice to call in to the factory to visit the workers and see the furniture, but on a Sunday that was sadly an impossibility so we continued on our way. Our optimism had been in vain and we’d failed miserably on our quest to meet some Amish people.
We hit the road in search of the toll road and Chicago in the distance, but before we left St. Joseph County there was to be one more distraction. Driving through the country roads we came across a large house with 3 horses in the field, initially thinking we had one more shot at making Amish friends we slowed down, however, quickly and soulcrushingly, we noticed a car in the driveway. At this point however Jono had become fascinated with the horses so we pulled up next to the house and jumped out. Almost instantly the lady who lived there scurried out her house, rushing over to inquire if we needed any help, we looked at each other once again marveling at the overwhelming helpfulness of Americans before reassuring her we weren’t lost we simply pulled over to see her stunning horses. Here however, her mood instantly changed, upon hearing we’d voluntarily stopped outside her property for no good reason she informed us that “Folks don’t usually stop on her property”. Sensing her distaste we assured her we’d be gone in a few minutes, we were confused but no one was stopping Jono saying hello to these horses! She scurried back into her home, we assume to gather up her guns and watch us from the window. After a brief human-equine bonding session we hit the road once more, but I couldn’t resist revving the engine and beeping the horn to make her day even more surreal. We were probably the first people to park outside her house in years!
The drive to Chicago from that point was largely uneventful, just mile after mile of lorries and interstate. There was one unfortunate incident, when we arrived at what must have been the fourth or fifth toll booth we’d had to stop and pay at. Each time it was costing us around $1-$3 in coins to continue on our route, so by this point we were starting to run dangerously low on change. We pulled up to the barrier and this time the sign said we had to pay $4.40. I rolled down my window and started to feed quarters into the machine. A large luminescent sign in front of us showed how much of the balance was remaining. The number went down quite quickly at first as we kept feeding in quarters, down to $1.90 or so, then we started with the 10 cent pieces. Jono was watching as the sign counted down, ever slower, as we continued to search for coins in our wallets, pockets and the seats and floor of the truck. There were about 60 cents remaining to pay now and a queue was starting to form behind us, this was getting embarrassing since the sign was large and prominent enough for all the drivers behind us to see. One more dime, down to 50 cents! And another! 40 cents to go.
“Come on, we’ve got this, have you checked your coat pockets?” I asked Jono.
We double checked everywhere we could think of but it was becoming clear that we were completely out of coins. Our only option now was to press the emergency button and call an operator.
“Hey… I’m sorry – we’re out of money, but we only have another 40 cents to pay… maybe you could just let us off with that?” I asked, rather optimistically.
“Sorry sir, the balance is 40 cents, you’ll have to pay that. Do you have any other payment methods?” Came the cold reply from the female worker.
“Yeah we can pay the last 40 cents by card if you want?”
“You’ll have to pay the full $4.40 by card. Would you like to do that now?” She replied. Not wanting to waste more time, as the queue behind us was getting longer, we agreed to pay.
“What about the $4 we already paid, do we get that back?”
“You’ll have to write to the head office and explain what happened, they’ll give you the money back.”
We paid the $4.40 and she lifted the barrier for us to let us continue our journey, much to the relief of the drivers behind us. Jono still intends to write to the Indiana Toll Road head office to recuperate our lost $4.
Luckily that was the last toll booth we had to stop at before arriving within the city limits of Chicago.
Driving into Chicago was simply terrifying. I was way out of my depth, driving in the middle of about 14 lanes of traffic on the busiest road I’d ever seen. Everyone else seemed to know what they were doing as they nonchalantly flew past us at high speed swerving from one lane to the next. I was just intently concentrating on not crashing into anyone, my knuckles white from gripping the steering wheel so hard. We kept driving until we could cross enough lanes of traffic that we could exit the highway and get into the actual city centre, which took longer than we’d hoped due to the high concentration of maniacs on the road.
We’d been warned that Chicago was difficult to drive in, when we were chatting with the locals in the Climax bar. They told us that any time they go they just find a parking lot somewhere on the outskirts then take taxis everywhere after that. After hearing this we decided we should probably do that too, but so far we hadn’t had a chance, so we just kept going.
The city centre itself was full of bright lights, tall buildings and people walking around between the bars, restaurants and theatres. The roads here were also incredibly busy, with buses and taxis seeming to own the road and everyone else trying to compete with them for space. It wouldn’t have been so bad if we’d had a rear-view mirror, or a back window we could actually see out of when we wanted to change lanes, but as it was in our ancient truck we were playing a bit of a guessing game. Luckily we avoided any blind-spot trouble and made it through the city to an area that seemed pretty central, with hotels, bars and parking lots. The parking lot we ended up parking in was beside a hotel called Hotel 71, so obviously that’s where we booked for the night. We’d been travelling all day and driving in Chicago for over an hour, so weren’t up for carrying our bags around and going value hunting now. It didn’t turn out to be overly expensive anyway, and our room had an amazing view of the city – the hotel was right in the centre, beside the river and just opposite Trump tower.
We didn’t have much time to appreciate the view though. On our way to Chicago we’d been talking, trying to think of people we knew who were from here or nearby who we could contact. Neither of us had family or friends here, and we couldn’t think of any poker players who were from Chicago. We’d almost given up on the idea, when eventually we remembered an American guy called John who we’d met in Belfast several months before when he was travelling through Europe. He’d been visiting Belfast for a few nights and had met our friend one morning when they were both in the queue to buy a burrito. They exchanged numbers and he came out with us that night, where he proved himself to be an absolute hero, so we’d have been happy to meet him again!
We weren’t 100% sure if he was from Chicago, but when we arrived in the hotel lobby we used the computer there to send him a message on Facebook just to check anyway, leaving my number and telling him to call us if he was around. We were hoping he’d eventually get that message and maybe contact us over the next few days, not really expecting to hear from him any time soon. We were pretty surpised then when on the way from the computers to the room my phone rang and it was John, saying he’d cancelled all his plans and was coming to meet us right now! Confirmed hero!
We met him in the hotel lobby a short time later and headed straight for a bar. It was getting late, but he knew the area quite well and was sure we could have a decent night. He even said he’d be able to show us some of the tourist sights of Chicago between bars if we planned it right.
The first bar we arrived at was an English pub called the Elephant & Castle. It was pretty quiet and seemed to be the kind of place where business people would go for a quiet drink after work, so not a great place for a Sunday night. John assured us that he’d only brought us here as it was the closest place to our hotel and he was keen for a quick pint, and that there were better places nearby that we could go to next.
He said he’d buy the first drinks, so we looked at the beers on offer and ordered three pints of the most intriguing looking one – the one with an old style black telephone as a tap. We asked John what the story behind that was and he didn’t know, so he asked the barman, who told us that it was a locally brewed beer called “312,” which is the telephone area code for that part of Chicago, hence the phone for a tap.

Americans seem to put a lot more effort into their taps than we do, throughout the trip we saw an extravagant number nine, a hanging man and some geese head but I think this black phone was our favourite (From Google Images)
We stayed there and chatted for a while, catching up with John and asking him questions about Chicago. He told us a lot, including the reason it’s called the “Windy City,” (apparently nothing to do with the weather, just an old nickname given to the city because of the politicians of the time talking a load of gas!), the fact that they dye the river green every St. Patrick’s Day, and that you can easily recognise the Chicago accent because it sounds like someone impersonating a duck. Smart man.
On the way to the next bar John brought us past a massive statue of Marilyn Monroe, and Tribune Tower, the building of the Chicago Tribune, which is the main newspaper of the city. That building is really interesting because the front of it has blocks from a lot of different structures worldwide built into it, including the Taj Mahal, the Palace of Westminster, the Parthenon, the Berlin Wall, Notre Dame, the Great Wall of China, the Pyramids, and lots of others, with inscriptions saying where each is from. After browsing the wall and taking some photos we carried on.
We soon made it to the next bar, the Rock Bottom Brewery. John proved his heroic status once again when, outside, a middle-aged drunk woman started following us and asking if she could join us and if we’d buy her a drink. Our natural reaction was to ignore her and move on, but John stopped to talk to her, smiled and politely explained the situation, saying we wouldn’t buy her a drink but she could come into the bar with us, but that we would just be talking to eachother because we didn’t know her so it might be awkward. She came in and took the stool beside John at the bar, where he just turned his back to her and ordered three more beers.
This place was a bar & grill as well as being a brewery where they brewed their own beers. It also had hooks under the bar where you could hang your coat, which was something we’d never seen before, Americans have thought of everything!
We had several rounds here, trying a few different locally brewed delicacies. After a while John suggested we move on to another bar, so we headed across the road to a place I don’t remember the name of – I guess the beers were starting to take their toll by this point.
On our way there we were approached by a group of young guys, who asked us if we knew of any liquor stores nearby. Again, we’d normally just apologise, say we didn’t know anywhere, and move on, but John is a much better person than us, so he stepped up and started checking the map on his phone and having banter with the lads!
“Guess you’re all underage huh?” He asked them. They confirmed that all but one of them was, so if they could find a liquor store he’d be able to buy everything for them. “Aah great plan guys! Ok, look at this map, there’s a place just a few blocks from here in that direction, and if that’s closed there’s another one just round the corner from there! Good luck!”
They thanked him profusely and wished us a good night on our pub crawl. “Hope you get laid tonight!” they shouted as they walked away. “You too!” John shouted back.
When we got to the next place there were a few empty tables, but we pulled up some chairs at a table directly beside two girls. John is an amazing grinder when it comes to drinking and talking to girls, and he got straight on it, intorducing himself and us to them. Their names were Michelle and Phoebe and they were, in their words, “Fresh 21!” and excited to go drinking properly for the first time, so they agreed to join us on our pub crawl.
They seemed like fun girls so we had a bit of banter with them and got a few more drinks in, when suddenly Jono’s jaw dropped at something he’d seen across the room.
“Hey look over there… Is that the guy we saw in Kalamazoo last night..? Tebow?” he asked with a puzzled look on his face.
“Seems unlikely. We’re over a hundred miles from Kalamazoo, what are the chances he’d have been in the same bar as us last night and now end up in the same bar as us tonight over a hundred miles away?” I’d barely finished my sentence when the man in question walked right past us and I saw for myself that it was indeed the same guy! I had to go and speak to him just to confirm it.
“Hey… Excuse me, sorry to interrupt!” (He was there with a girl.) “But were you in Kalamazoo last night, in the Wild Bull?”
He was astonished but confirmed that he was there. He said he was a student in Kalamazoo but that he’s originally from Chicago so now he was back home for the holidays.
“Ah that’s amazing! Such a coincidence that we noticed you there and now we’re both here! And you were the girl who was with him last night too, right?” I asked.
She seemed confused, apparently she’d never been to Kalamazoo in her life. Oops! Tebow just looked at me and laughed, shook my hand and said goodbye, before exiting the bar with his soon-to-be ex-girlfriend.
We stayed there for one more drink, then decided to head across the road to a sports bar where the girls had agreed they’d try a pint of Guinness. We got there and Jono bought the round, ordering beers for the three of us and two pints of Guinness for the girls. I can remember the first time I tried Guinness, and the facial expression I pulled as I took the first sip and pushed the pint away in disgust. It is quite an acquired taste, so we were looking forward to seeing these “fresh 21-year-old” girls trying it for the first time. Michelle took a sip of hers and the reaction was as expected, pure disgust. She refused to drink any more despite us adamantly telling her that it gets better as you go on. She couldn’t be swayed though, and Jono was forced to finish it for her. Phoebe, on the other hand, was great! Although clearly unimpressed by the first sip, she bravely continued undeterred and evenutally finished it off, surmising, “It’s alright. Tastes like sausages.”
All of us were pretty drunk by this stage, laughing and chatting away. At one point Phoebe claimed that she was Irish since her great grandmother came from Ireland. That didn’t go down well, but might go some way to explaining how she managed to sink her pint of Guinness while Michelle couldn’t.
We were happy to keep drinking and continue with the pub crawl but the girls had had enough and decided to call it a night. Typical Americans, going out for a “proper” night of drinking and ending up at home in bed by 1. We were pretty tired after our day of travelling so decided we should probably head back to the hotel too. After the next round, of course.
After we’d finished the three of us started walking back to the hotel. John began to drunkenly apologise for it being a bit of a quiet night and before we could stop him to tell him we’d had a great night of seeing Chicago, metting fun girls and drinking with an absolute hero, he suggested a plan for the next day to make up for it, involving heading to an area of Chicago called Wrigleyville. He said it was basically a long street lined with busy bars and restaurants, in the North of the city, about 10 minutes away by tram, where we were sure to meet a lot of people and have a great time. Sounded good to us! The three of us headed to the hotel room, where John decided to sleep on the floor so he wouldn’t have to waste time travelling back into town to meet us in the morning. Genius.





































